大观茶论·蒸压

　　茶之美恶、尤系于蒸芽压黄之得失。蒸太生则芽滑，故色清而味烈；过熟则芽烂，故茶色赤而不胶。压久则气竭昧漓，不及则色暗昧涩。蒸芽欲及熟而香，压黄欲膏尽急止。如此，则制造之功，十已得七、八矣。

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