大观茶论·味

　　味：夫茶以味为上。香甘重滑，为味之全。惟北苑壑源之品兼之。其味醇而乏风骨者，蒸压太过也。茶枪乃条之始萌者，木性酸，枪过长则初甘重而终微涩，茶旗乃叶之方敷者，叶味苦，旗过老则初虽留舌而饮彻反甘矣。此则芽胯有之，若夫卓绝之品，真香灵味，自然不同。

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